Molten Man

Molten Man
Molten Man

Solar Panel Lights Can Light Up Your Landscape

This was a project undertaken for Burning Man 2002. The goal was to build solar path lights for the Alternative Energy Zone.

Anybody might ask, "Why *build* a solar path light when anybody can go to a home supply store and buy one for under $10?"

The answer is that learning and creating is fun! It's way cool to fiddle with bitty little electronic parts until suddenly There is Light! Anybody derives pleasure from seeing a homemade light, in all its funky glory, lighting the paths of the AEZ. Plus, building a solar path light is a great introduction to circuits and solar power!

This project was made possible by the collective efforts of several members of the AEZ mailing list. A special thanks goes to the stunningly talented AEZ members who built the Solar CDs, Jeff Barlow of the AEZ, and Head Hardware Wonk, Mike Tarrant of Blinky Red Things in Hushville.

To the right is one of the super cool Solar CDs. They play the music of the sun to the tune of about 4.4 volts.

"Hey, Kidz! Please be aware that this project involves using sharp tools, potentially toxic fumes, and hot molten metal!

There are also wires that might poke your eye out! This isn't a project for just anybody! Be smart and be safe.

Now, go have some fun!"

The Flow of Electricity

The Two LEDs Circuit: Day and Night

During the day when the sun is shining on the Solar CD, the electricity provided by the solar cells flows into the batteries, recharging them for their night's work.

Anybody might ask, "What keeps the LEDs from turning on during the day?"
The answer is that the current provided by the Solar CD seeks out any open path. Most of the current flows directly from the Solar CD and into the batteries. But a small amount of current flows through 2.2k resistor R1, where it meets the higher resistance of 10k resistor R2. An even smaller amount of current flows through R2; the rest of this current flows into the "base" lead of transistor Q1, which "turns on" Q1, creating an open path for current to flow through 2.2k resistor R3 and then through Q1 from collector to emitter. This prevents current from flowing into the base of transistor Q2. If current flowed into the base of Q2, the LEDs would turn on.

The width of the red arrows attempts to denote the amount of current flowing at each location in the circuit. Please note that all voltage and mA numbers are approximate. The actual voltage and mA varies depending on conditions.

 

Anybody asks, "What turns on the LEDs at night?"
When the sun sets, the Solar CD stops producing electricity, and the batteries take over all the work and start pumping their stored current into the circuit. The current runs into one-way valve, diode D1, and can go no further. So a small amount of current flows across 2.2k resistor R3, and since it can't flow across transistor Q1 (which is turned off), the current flows into the base lead of transistor Q2: this "turns on" Q2. Now, this creates an open path so that most of the current can flow across the LEDs and through Q2, which, of course, makes the LEDs light up!

Anybody says, "I have a vague understanding of current and electricity. I know it has something to do with 'bitty particles' moving around, but it still all seems like magic to me!"
Jeff writes, "Actually, the 'bitty particles' are all electrons and they all have the same charge: -1. It only seems like magic because the part that moves is too small to see. The traditional beginner crutch is to think of water flow in pipes. You can't see that either but you know it's there because you can see the water when it comes out the end. Saying that you have a certain current flow in Amps is just a shorthand for saying that some (very large) number of electrons have passed a certain point in one second. It's the same idea as measuring water flow in gallons per minute. Keep in mind that the various currents differ only quantitatively. One might be 10mA and another 50A (50,000mA) but they're both just electrons passing a point, and electrons are all the same."

About the Author

Solar Panel Light Man is an avid supporter of green energy and most especially solar energy.

He hails from a town in central Kansas called Salina and enjoys tinkering with new and creative ideas that help beautify his home and property in addition to saving him a little green at the end of every month.

His website, Solar Panel Light for Sheds is dedicated to his endeavors to opening the public's eyes to the many simple and beautiful applications of solar panel light in and around the yard.

Feel free to visit and look around, you might find an idea  that would work well in your yard, http://solarpanellight.net is just a click away.

Problem with basketball ball?

I bought a Molten GM7 (http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/men-molten-gm7-fiba-official-indoor-outdoor-composite-29-5-basketball-reviews) to use for outdoor.

It works great and I love it, but the problem is that when I am done using it, it's REALLY dirty because of the outdoor play. I hate cleaning it because I fear damaging it, but am forced to because the grip of the ball just f*cks up (and of course, I play at my school, so when i am done there I have my hands black and my uniform dirty,etc) It just feels bad...

What can I do to solve it? Can I apply something to PREVENT it from becoming dirty, or what is a good Molten/Spalding ball for outdoor? Thanks
The Molten GM7 is indoor/outdoor tho (composite leather)

Lol I know, but I used to have a Spalding that I randomly bought (when i was younger and didn't know there were different types of balls) and I can't remember it getting dirty...I lost it tho..

its called basketball son .
i did that was a kid and so did my father
outdoor sports in general will get you dirty, you cant complain lol

but what i liked to do was bring some water and a towel with me when i ball
(still do it today)
just wipe off the dirt , simple as that

Molten Man
Marvel Comics: Molten Man


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Metal Casting White

Casting is one of the earliest known forms of metal working. In its most simple form, it involves heating metal until it is molten and then pouring it into a mold. As the metal cools it takes the shape of the mold. Early castings were crude in finish with a large amount of surface anomalies that required a great deal of machine work to get the required quality of surface texture. Modern casting techniques produce awfully fine tolerations and the casting requires little finishing work.

The artist who creates metal art castings should be both a foundry man and an artist. Bronze is one of the earliest alloys known to occupy and is formed up of tin and copper. Being malleable, it becomes a liquid of low viscosity when liquified and thus has the power to fill even tiny crevices in a mold, permitting for the production of castings with fine detail. Though bronze castings are the most typical, nearly any metal can be cast. The artist wishes to grasp what kind of mold to use with what metal. And he must know the way to melt metal.

The casting process starts with the creation of the mold. The most typical type is known as the Lost Wax Casting technique. Being straightforward to create and with the facility to create molds with fine detail, it's the artists' favorite. First the artist creates a wax sculpture. This sculpture is then used to form a mold. Molds can be made of a selection of materials from sand to latex, depending on the quantity of detail needed. Latex is employed when highly fine detailing is concerned since it forms a skin like coating on the sculpture and picks up even the minutest detail. The sculpture is then removed from the mold.

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Molten wax is then poured in the mold till the necessary thickness is achieved and the wax copy is then removed and any defects on the surface removed. A shell is then built round the copy using a mixture of sand and liquid silica. The shell is heated until the wax softens and runs out thru a drain hole left in the shell.

The final mold is then ready and the molten metal is poured into it. After it has cooled and taken the shape of the mold, the shell is removed and the completed casting is available.

The artist then removes and imperfections which will remain on the casting after which it is either painted of coated to give it the desired finish.

Metal art castings may be of any size, from the tiniest piece of gold jewelry to a huge cast statue to big to even fit inside. The good thing about this kind of metal art is the fine detail that can be produced. Modern metal softening techniques make sure that the molten metal that enters the mold is without imperfections and strong enough to safely hold a diamond ( in the case of jewelry ) or withstand the rigors of nature ( in the case of garden sculptures ).

Additionally, once the mold is created, many copies of the art work may be produced.

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About the Author

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Molten Man

admin posted at 1996-7-13 Category: Uncategorized

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